Finishing Powder Pro - Clinical Data
PANEL STUDY
A panel study was performed on 12 different subjects (3 male, 9 female) to study performance in terms of (i) Instant and long-lasting mattifying effect, (ii) transparency and (iii) blurring effect. The subjects were in the age range from 17 to 48 years. Finishing Powder Pro was applied to the left-hand side of the face of each test person and the right-hand side of the face was kept as reference without applied product. Images were taken before and after product application at T0 and T8 (0 and 8 hours respectively). Using a glossy meter by Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Disruptive Materials scientists took measurements of bare skin and skin with Finishing Powder Pro at T0, T4 and T8. Glossy meters are used to test the efficacy of cosmetic products by giving a value associated with the gloss or shine of the skin. The instant mattifying effect was estimated at T0 comparing left and right-hand side of the face.
OIL AND MOISTURE UPTAKE
The oil uptake method was carried out and compared to other market leading products. These uptake tests are useful in determining the oil and moisture absorption capacity for a formula or raw material. Finishing Powder Pro had a 400% increase in moisture absorption and a 61% increase in oil absorption. The oil uptake of Finishing Powder Pro also exceeded all investigated high-end setting powders.
NO FLASHBACK
Flashback effect is the white cast you see when taking a photograph using a flash. Flashback effect was estimated for the original and new formula (with Upsalite) by applying the original formula to one side of the face and the Finishing Powder Pro to the other side of the face of two volunteers with skin tone II and IV (according to the Fitzpatrick Scale). Photos were taken with and without flash and by comparison of the two images neither the original formula nor the Finishing Powder Pro displayed any flashback effect.
LONG-LASTING MATTIFYING EFFECT
The long-lasting mattifying effect was investigated after 4 and 8 hours after initial application. No re-application was made, and participants were pursuing their daily work without any alterations. The appearance of shine on bare skin as compared to the matte appearance of skin with applied product was clear in most part of the face (forehead/T-zone, cheek and chin).
At initial application, we saw an average of a 60% mattifying effect. After 8 hours, the average mattifying effect for the group was still strong at 49%. On oily skin types, there was a 62% decrease in gloss with initial application and this decrease was maintained for 8 hours. According to the survey the panelist completed, 100% felt they experienced a long- lasting mattifying effect while using the Finishing Powder Pro formula.
BLURRING EFFECT
We used the blurring index or “behind the gloss ratio” to assess the blurring effect of the Finishing Powder Pro. The Behind the Gloss Ratio is a number representing the blurring or soft-focus effect of a cosmetic powder. According to Benderley et al. a low blurring index corresponds to a good blurring material with large soft-focus effect. [2]
In Table 2, the calculated values of blurring index of Mica (Sericite GMS-4C, Kobo, CAS no.: 12001-26-2), the original formula and the Finishing Powder Pro are presented. The Finishing Powder Pro has a considerably lower blurring index (30 % decrease) than the original formula and than Serecite, which is known as a cosmetic ingredient with little/no blurring effect.
According to the survey the panelist completed, 86% experienced a 50% or greater reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles due to the blurring effect.